The Community of Guaitil

by Guinevere Caswell

For our Introduction to Research Methods class this semester, our main project was to go into the field and conduct research, while also giving back to the communities we were staying in. For my project, I decided to go to the town of Guaitil in Guanacaste, Costa Rica.

The town is very rural, but known for its artisan ceramics, which follow indigenous techniques that go back hundreds of years. I had no idea what to expect going into the project, but the idea of learning about ceramics and getting to make them sounded interesting to me, and I was very excited to go! We arrived in Guaitil on a Monday afternoon, stepping out of the taxi into 97° weather, and were immediately greeted by our hostess who is a local ceramic business owner. She took us right to her store, showed us around, and within half an hour we were sitting down making our own pottery! (With lots of help of course, it is a difficult process!) The next day, we explored the town of Guaitil, and met many other artisans. The center of town is a small square of houses surrounding a field, and almost every house sells pottery. We also visited the women’s ceramic cooperative, a big building and a community center in the center of town.

They have a big kitchen, and we were immediately invited for a traditional homemade lunch of “arroz y maíz,” a delicious dish with rice, corn, and chicken. Every single person we met in Guaitil was so friendly and welcoming, and all had wonderful stories to tell. The artisans use local clay, as well as the same tools and techniques their ancestors have used for generations. While staying in Guaitil, I experienced every part of the ceramic making process. One day we drove to see where the clay is sourced from the ground, then we took the clay and shaped it into pots using small hand-operated pottery wheels. After the pots had a chance to dry in the sun, we watched as they were glazed and painted, and then helped etch beautiful designs into them such as birds, monkeys, lizards, and flowers. The final step, after everything else had been done, was to put them in a large oven at 1000 degrees. It is a long process that takes many days, but the final product is amazing! We also got to experience the business side of ceramic making, organizing the newly made pots on shelves, cleaning up the shop every day, and talking to tourists who stopped by. Although ceramic making is a beautiful process, it is also a difficult business to be in. The main market is tourists, and since tourists are just passing through they often do not have the space to carry heavy pottery with them. This is difficult on a normal day, but especially difficult right now as the world is dealing with COVID-19, and incoming flights to Costa Rica have been put on hold. Our host looked at me one day and said, “You have been here three days and haven’t seen us sell a single thing.” For many people, these businesses are their main source of income, so this is very difficult and discouraging. Many family members leave the area as soon as they can to look for better jobs in bigger towns, and to support their families. This is the sad reality, but nonetheless I was blown away by the kindness and positivity of the community, and how everyone was so open and welcoming to two foreign girls. Our host in Guaitil was one of the most amazing women I have ever met. She trusted us with the keys to her business, made us the most amazing dinners, and told us so many stories about her life and the community. One night we met her entire family on a beautiful farm, while thousands of stars lit the sky above us. She made me feel so involved and welcomed in her community, as well as with the ceramic making process. Sadly, because of the current world situation, our visit was cut a week shorter than it should have been, but in the week we were there I fell so in love with this little community in the middle of Guanacaste; the people, the animals, the scenery, the ceramics, and even the ridiculously hot summer weather. I will definitely be returning to Guaitil one day soon. So, if you ever find yourself in Costa Rica, I highly recommend making a point to stop by the small town of Guaitil. Buy some beautiful pottery, start up a conversation with the local artisans, and enjoy your time there. You will be glad you did!