Welcome to Bosnia and Herzegovina!
by Emma Rosen
Upon our arrival in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina, I think it is safe to say that the entirety of our collective knowledge of the country and its history could fit into just one of our carry on suitcases. Some of us knew of the existence of a genocide, some of us could connect Sarajevo to the assassination of Franz and Sophie Ferdinand. and some of us were more than a little clueless. It is interesting to note that even students who have been exposed to education regarding Europe and international relations do not have a grasp on Bosnia and Herzegovina. What does this say about the world in general? How quickly have we forgotten, or never even heard of, the slaughter of thousands?
We were introduced to Sarajevo through walking tours, lectures at the International University of Sarajevo, and exploring the city itself on our own. Our first walking tour sold us on the concept of Sarajevo as the “Jerusalem of Europe.” Indeed, its history of inter-religious cooperation between Orthodox Christians, Catholics, Muslims, and Jews wove a fascinating tapestry of peaceful conduct and welcoming openness. This idea of Sarajevo as a bastion of hope was soon shattered by the horrifying stories of the siege of Sarajevo, relayed to us during a walking tour of the memorials for those whose lives were taken during the war.
The history of this country is exasperating, tangled, and horrifying. We visited many memorials and cemeteries, to the point where on bus rides I would see a cemetery and anticipate a stop. We must not forget the darkness of BiH’s past and present, but neither should we focus on it entirely. Our two weeks in BiH involved not just lectures and heartache but numerous opportunities to experience the natural beauty and culture of the country. Yes, we learned about the absolutely terrible massacre at Srebrenica, but we did so in the most beautiful environment, surrounded by a turquoise lake, starkly stunning cliffs, and gorgeous farmland on rolling hills. The sorrow and bleakness I felt at the Srebrenica memorial, looking at personal items of the dead displayed with their heartbreaking stories, was countered by the pure joy of running with sheep and watching my classmates play shepherd for a while. The sadness stays with you, but humanity is found when we make new, bright memories where there used to be only horrors.
We had the chance to meet with the UN, the EU, and the OSCE delegations in BiH. The presentations were informative and we met some interesting people, but it was a little hard to stomach what they were saying considering what we had learned about the international community’s failure to act and ultimate complicity in the genocide. However, it didn’t feel like any of the representatives were trying to dodge our questions, and they seemed open with their answers. It is hard to separate the organizations now from the organizations, especially the UN, during the war. But in order to move forward it is perhaps necessary to do so.
Our day trip to the Herzegovina area including Mostar was especially memorable for its beauty and its interesting culture, including a brief lesson on Sufism at a Sufi lodge and a visit to a restored mosque in a village that is now home to many artists and artist retreats. The place that BiH is becoming is rich with culture, even if it is a different place than before the war.
The political situation in BiH is, to be frank, pretty messed up. It makes it hard to imagine how the country can possibly move forward with their ethnic divisions as prominent as ever. As outsiders, it is also hard to imagine our place in it all. We are not natives, we cannot fix this country, nor should we believe that we can. It is easy to feel helpless. Perhaps what we can do is educate those around us about the war, about the genocide, in hopes that awareness drives out ignorance. Maybe this will not ease the plight of the people of BiH, but more knowledge is never a bad thing to have. As of now, the country is starkly divided. Ethnic divisions are not only seen on a personal level but on the state level as well. The education given to students of different ethnicities involves every group’s own truth. There is no one narrative about what happened in Bosnia and Herzegovina. There is no one truth. The lectures we heard, people we met, and memorials we visited perhaps move us closer to knowing the truth, but until all events and atrocities of the past are acknowledged by all, there might not be a way to move forward. This is the lesson we take with us: we do not have the answers. But we keep searching.
